The curly hair typing system was popularized by hairstylist Andre Walker in the 1990s and has been refined extensively by the natural hair community since. Understanding where your hair falls gives you a framework for choosing the right products, techniques, and routines — instead of guessing and hoping.
Type 2: Wavy Hair (2A, 2B, 2C)
Wavy hair is the bridge between straight and curly. It has a natural S-pattern but lies relatively flat near the roots. Wavy hair is highly prone to frizz and tends to respond best to lightweight products — creams and heavy butters weigh it down instantly.
2A — Fine, loose waves
Almost straight at the root, with a gentle S-shape forming toward the ends. Very easy to straighten, very easy to lose definition. Needs the lightest products possible: a lightweight mousse or fluid leave-in. Avoid anything cream-based.
2B — Medium waves with more definition
Flatter at the root with more pronounced S-waves from mid-length down. Slightly more resistant to frizz than 2A. Works well with lightweight gels and mousses. Still benefits from diffusing rather than air-drying for definition.
2C — Strong waves, beginning to curl
The thickest of the wavy types. Waves are more defined and the hair starts to form actual curls at the ends. High frizz potential. Responds well to the CGM (Curly Girl Method) products and techniques.
Type 3: Curly Hair (3A, 3B, 3C)
Type 3 hair forms actual curls — S-shapes and spirals with a clear pattern. This is the most varied category: 3A curls are loose and springy while 3C curls are tight and dense. Type 3 hair tends to be drier than type 2 because the curl pattern makes it harder for natural scalp oils to travel down the shaft.
3A — Large, loose curls (about the size of a marker)
Defined, springy curls with good natural shine. Tends to get fluffy and lose definition quickly. Benefits from curl-defining creams applied to wet hair and diffusing with a low heat setting.
3B — Medium, tight curls (about the size of a finger)
More defined and dense than 3A, with higher frizz potential. Needs more moisture than 3A. Responds well to leave-in + gel layering. Deep conditioning weekly is important.
3C — Tight corkscrew curls (about the size of a pencil)
The tightest of type 3. Very dense, prone to shrinkage (up to 50%), and needs significant moisture. Loves butter-based products and LOC (Liquid-Oil-Cream) method layering.
Type 4: Coily/Kinky Hair (4A, 4B, 4C)
Type 4 hair has the tightest patterns, the most shrinkage, and the highest need for moisture. It is also the strongest hair type structurally — despite common misconceptions. Type 4 hair responds best to protective styles, deep conditioning, and heavy moisture sealing.
4A — Soft, tightly coiled S-pattern
Defined S-coils about the size of a crochet needle. Significant shrinkage (up to 50%). Needs rich moisture products but still responds well to definition techniques.
4B — Z-pattern coils
Less defined curl pattern, more of a Z or bends at sharp angles. High shrinkage. Needs constant moisture sealing. Styling creams and butters are essential; gels alone tend to be too drying.
4C — The tightest coils, almost no visible curl pattern
Highest shrinkage (up to 70-75%), highest moisture need, lowest natural sheen. Requires the most protective styling and the richest products. Heavy creams, butters, and oils are the baseline. LOC or LCO method is non-negotiable.
Why Porosity Matters As Much As Curl Type
Two people can have the same curl type and need completely different products based on their hair porosity — how easily the hair shaft absorbs and retains moisture. Low porosity hair repels moisture (needs heat to open the cuticle). High porosity hair absorbs moisture but loses it just as fast (needs heavy sealants).
"Curl type tells you your pattern. Porosity tells you what your hair actually needs."
Works for Types 2C–4B
Liora Overnight Curl Set
Formulated to define and protect curl patterns overnight without weighing down finer types or under-delivering for coarser ones. Adjustable — use more for type 4, less for type 2C.
$24.99 $39.99
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I have more than one curl type?
Yes — this is extremely common. Most people have multiple curl types on different parts of their head. The nape is often tighter than the crown; the temples are often looser. Build your routine around your dominant type and adjust application where needed.
Can your curl type change over time?
Yes. Pregnancy, hormonal changes, medication, aging, and even major diet changes can alter curl pattern. Many women find their hair becomes curlier or looser in their 30s and 40s.
Is the curly hair type system accurate?
It's a useful starting framework, not a definitive science. The system doesn't account for porosity, density, or elasticity — all of which affect how hair behaves and what it needs. Use curl type as a starting point, not a fixed identity.
